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Introduction to Salzburg, Austria
Salzburg (pop. 144,700) is Austria's premier tourist city -- it's as
popular with Austrians as it is with visitors from the rest of the world. As a
result, it can feel overrun with tourists during high season (the summer,
reaching a crescendo in August). If you're going then, be prepared for long
lines and dense crowds. (Don't even think about renting a car during this period
-- gridlock is the norm.) If you aren't put off by cold weather, a wintertime
visit can be much more enjoyable.
Most attractions in Salzburg proper are within walking distance of one
another -- easily within a half-mile/1 km of either bank of the Salzbach River.
On the west bank is the Altstadt (old town), characterized by plazas with
statues and fountains and populated by baroque churches, well-known cafes,
stores selling designer fashions, museums and souvenir shops. Though heavily
tourist-oriented, it's rich in authentic atmosphere and detail -- an outdoor
market (mostly produce) flourishes on Universitatsplatz, and you can tour the
narrow, cobblestone streets of the area in a horse-drawn carriage.
To get oriented -- historically and geographically -- begin with a tour of
Hohensalzburg, the large white castle that looms on a cliff above the historic
quarter (you get there via a funicular railway off Kapitelplatz). After taking a
self-guided audio tour of the castle, you'll have a vivid understanding of life
in medieval Salzburg.
Next, investigate the Residenz,
a palace that provides insight into the court life of the Hapsburgs. And after
that, simply explore the streets, taking care not to miss Mozart's birthplace
(which houses a surprisingly modest array of articles related to his life),
Franziskaner Kirche (a stunning baroque high altar and chapels) and the cemetery
behind St. Peter's Church. As you're strolling, keep an ear open for tunes
played by the glockenspiel in the belfry of what is now a post office. And, if
you haven't visited many classical European cathedrals, step inside the Dom
(you can't miss the cathedral's twin green towers). Finish off the day with
either a nightcap at the Winkler Cafe, high above the old town (you get there on
an elevator built into a mountain), or a concert of Mozart performed in a
historic setting (Hohensalzburg is one of the venues).
The primary attraction on the other side of the river is Mirabell Palace and
Garden. Built for the mistress of a prince, it now houses the mayor's office
(the baroque staircase leading to it must be seen to be believed) as well as a
small public library, art museum (baroque paintings) and an orangery with a
sampling of plants from other lands. Nearby is the Mozarteum, containing concert
halls and an important Mozart library (the house in which he wrote The Magic
Flute was moved to the site from Vienna). Adjacent to it is the Salzburg
Marionette Theater, which performs, among other works, Mozart operas.
On the outskirts of the city is one of Salzburg's top attractions, Hellbrunn
Castle. Its water gardens (operating only in the summer) are great fun,
especially for kids. When Archbishop Markus Sitticus built the place in the
1600s, he had trick fountains mounted in the floors and walls. To satisfy his
quirky sense of humor, he occasionally sprayed his guests by activating a secret
mechanism.
There are many other things to see and do in the area. We'd suggest the
18th-century mansions Schloss Leopoldskron and Schloss Klessheim (allow at least
an hour for each). Within a short drive in any direction are mountains, gardens
and beautiful lakes (Traunsee, Wolfgangsee and Attersee are the best known). The
view is spectacular from atop the Unersberg (6,115 ft/1,865 m), which is reached
by cable car. Health spas and good downhill and cross-country skiing are
available nearby. It's also possible to take tours just over the border into
Bavaria in Germany.
Some of Salzburg's annual festivals are Mozart Week (January), the Easter
Festival, the Salzburg
Festival (summer) and Culture Week (October). Advent is another special
time in Salzburg, highlighted by people dressing up as demons and running
through the streets. The city truly comes alive during these times. Be sure to
book hotel rooms far in advance (or stay in one of the many bed-and-breakfasts
or private residences that are available outside the city). Salzburg is 155
mi/240 km west of Vienna.
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